SBEII Clean & Lube Procedures

[threeshot]

Hello Benelli owners. I am new to semi-auto shotguns and I have purchased a Synthetic SBE II and I have read the manual.

Yes, I actually read the manual. [img]smile.gif[/img]

The manual gives you step-by-step procedures for the disassembly and assembly of the shotgun.

The manual does not specify what should be cleaned nor what should be lubricated and how much lubricate to apply.


The manual states that after the shotgun is completely stripped (removing the barrel, bolt assembly, disassemble bolt assembly, trigger guard assembly):
"All the parts that require routine maintenance and cleaning are disassmbled.".

Can someone provide me with instructions of what exactly should be cleaned and what should be lubricated and how much lubricate to apply?

Thanks to all for advice and your help.

[upland04]

I just shot 500 rds thru my new SBEll and cleaned it with the help from my brother who has lots of experience with autos including 2 SBEs. He told me that unlike, gas operated guns, you clean and lightly lube all metal parts (film). All bearing surfaces should have a drop of oil put on them. I don't think it is possible to over oil this inertia system. Benelli may say something different. If your gun is camo, Benelli says soap and water only on the finish. My bother ruined his finish on one with braklean. I hope you enjoy your SBEll as much as I am mine...............Upland04

[birddog]

If its metal coat it lightly.

- over lubricating a gun is disaster waiting to happen. It will foul-up 10x's faster if its slathered in lube or even has a heavy coat on it.

If it looks dirty clean it ...if it doesn't ...clean it anyways. Then oil it down and wipe or use compressed air to remove excess oil on the parts like the trigger assembly.

[threeshot]

Thanks for the information. That helped. The procedures that have been listed thus far are the same procedures I used on my old shotguns.

A light oil layer on all metal parts and a little extra on the slide rails or high friction points.

Just as a FYI for other newbie owners, I had problems with re-assembly of the trigger guard per the manual.

Let me clarify that this is when you remove the entire trigger guard assembly. I am not disassembling the trigger assembly once it has been removed.

The two problems I ran into are the shim that touches the metal receiver had budged or bent upwards in the middle when the trigger guard was removed.

This made reassembly a challenge. I took a small screwdriver and used it as if it was a shoehorn to put the trigger assembly back into place.

The other issue was my fault for not noticing that the front of the trigger guard has a lip that attaches to the outside and on top of the receiver, and then you sort of hinge the back of the trigger guard downward into place.

I ended up putting some minor scratches on the front of the trigger guard.


Another learning experience for me was the choke tubes. Since my old shotguns are fixed choke, I was not sure how tight to put the choke tube into the barrel.

Fortunately, I did not over tighten the choke tubes. Using the choke wrench, I tighten the choke until it starts giving me resistance, then turn it about 1/8 of a turn more seemed tight enough for me.

I had to buy a Retaining Ring Pliers to remove the magazine spring seal ring. The needle nose pliers were not small enough to allow me to squeeze the seal ring without slipping out of the seal ring.

One last item. With the gun being NIB, if you are going to disassemble the bolt assembly per the manuals instructions to clean and lube, first remove the bolt handle before starting.

On a completely assembled gun, this the third step. (Of course making sure the gun is unloaded is the first step.)

Otherwise, you will make it harder on yourself later.

Before shooting a new gun, I prefer to field strip the gun per the manufacture. Then clean and re-oil the gun. You will be amazed at the goop and grime that is on the gun and in the gun.

Thank you again for the advice.

[M1014]

Scratches,they make me sad & ,I'm guilty of over oiling but survived seeee= [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Drundel]

threeshot:

I enjoyed the post, kinda reminded me what its like to really prize the guns. I bought an SBE last year and tricked it out, all sure cycle parts, x-coil pad, had it camo dipped, aftermarket chokes, and man its got some scratches! But hey, its a meat gun, does it kill ducks and geese? Mine sure has, don't throw it on the bottom of a boat but don't sweat the small stuff.

Ok, the real info, I hunt ALOT in the worst stuff you can think off. The salt marsh thats full of oil, so sulfur, so our stuff rusts more than most people can even imagine so we oil the crap out of ours, problem is, the cheap oil holds dirt and gums up the action. On a hunting board, FP-10 and miltec-1 are the ones that come up all the time as the best of the best. I have some miltec-1 and man its sure a lot smoother than rem oil, breakfree, or corrosion-x. I put a LIGHT coat of grease on my rails and then miltec on all the other metal parts, so far so good.

Enjoy the gun.

[threeshot]

Thanks Drundel.

Your post about FP-10 and Militec-1 had me researching the gun oils again. As I expected, many opinions on which gun oil is the best.

Personally, I like to use M-Pro7 to clean my guns and I have ordered Firepower/Shooters Choice FP-10 CLP. (Currently using Hoppes Oil & Glockmeister G-Lube which I suspect is Militec-1). Shooters Choice has a contract to sell FP-10 made by Firepower.

FP-10 Firepower and Shooter's Choice FAQ

There are posts (in other gun forums) claiming that CLP is causing our troop’s guns to jam in Iraq versus guns that are oiled with Militec used by soldiers that had friends or family send them the Militec-1. If this is true, why did we not hear about this in the 1990 Gulf War? Hhhhmmmm.

In addition, there are several CLP vendors. Someone from the Army posted that the defense department has a contract with Royal Lubricants “Royco 634 CLP”. It is much thicker and has a distinctly different odor than Break Free CLP.

Another military person posted that they felt that gun failures were due to a lack of proper weapons maintenance (he was a former US Marine).

Some of the other forums that I read about Militec-1 wrote how this is a great oil for low humidity environments or if you are frequently oiling your guns. Say every four months.

Some people posted that Militec-1 was not good for long-term storage of the gun for rust prevention.

I am not trying to sell anyone on using brand X over brand Y. These are opinions from other people. Your mileage may vary.

I am summarizing what other people have posted in the other gun forums. I decided to get FP-10 a try. I can always get a free sample of Militec-1 if I decide to later.


Regarding the minor scratches:

Yea, you are right about don’t sweat the small stuff. It’s just that I am anal about caring for my guns. This was the equivalent of buying a new car and then scratching the car door when you went to unlock the door with the key.

I hope to shoot the SBE II in the next week or two.

[threeshot]

Ops. I forgot to list that I use Mil-Comm TW-25B grease.