New FFT Stuff

[Monkey]

Anyone foresee any issues running the FFT trigger and disconnector with the hammer?

[crofton]

Anyone foresee any issues running the FFT trigger and disconnector with the hammer?

StrangerDanger has already ordered one and you can take this too the bank, his review of the components will be 1st class.

So sometime after the shot-show check back for his review.

[StrangerDanger]

There is certainly potential for failure in any trigger pack that is relying on other parts for tolerances to be met/maintained. I'm not certain who the actual manufacturer of the FCG components are. FFT didn't offer a name up, and I did't ask. They did sit on this project for a year doing testing. FFT's claim is that the components are superior in build quality than the OEM parts. When pressed on what that meant in reality, FFT said that they were EDM wire cut, properly hardened, ground and they have a superior finish on each of the final parts.
I have a carriercomp hammer on hand as well as the OEM unit. I could visually tell that the carriercomp offering was vastly superior to the OEM unit in build quality. The machining was much more crisp and the hammer hook engages better.

If the FCG breaks on anyone, it'll be me. Those 0.20 second shot breaks with high brass rounds are rough on a weapon.

[tactical1]

I am also looking forward to the review; notwithstanding the 922r issue, will the 'upgrade' be worth the $130? I'll contribute $10 for ammo for StrangerDanger to do some before and after testing with a cost/benefit analysis - I'm sure FFT has done a substantial amount of testing to make sure the parts equal or exceed OEM - just trying to figure out if the parts are "worth it"
SD - tell me how to get the 'contribution' to you.

[StrangerDanger]

tactical1,
I appreciate the offer, but it isn't needed. I have about 6k of various 12 gauge on hand. My 'range' is free and about five minutes away. A normal range outing will eat up 300 rounds.

What it will come down to is if you need the 922 parts. If you just want a lighter trigger, just buy the trigger portion. FFT reportss a 1.5 lbs reduction in trigger pull. So it'll end up around 6 lbs. The disconnector and hammer won't effect the trigger feel.

Hopefully the stuff arrives by Wednesday.

[Monkey]

Anyone foresee any issues running the FFT trigger and disconnector with the hammer?

Meant to ask about FFT trigger and disconnector with GEISSELE hammer, sorry.

[StrangerDanger]

It shouldn't be an issue. I'll function test the weapon with my Geissele hammer and the FFT trigger and disconnector before I swap hammers.

[StrangerDanger]

I received my package today as well. Just finished the install and took some technical data. G = Grams.

Factory Trigger: 24.31g
Factory Disconnector: 3.59g
Factory Hammer: 13.87g

FFT Trigger: 23.89g
FFT Disconnector: 3.49g
FFT Hammer: 14.06g

Carriercomp/Geissele Hammer: 14.30g

I tested the FFT Trigger and Disconnector with the Carriercomp/Geissele Hammer. No issues were encountered. I did feel that the FFT hammer offered a smoother trigger break than the carriercomp/Geissele unit. I attribute this to the surface coating on the FFT parts.



Dimensionally, the parts are the same for the most part when comparing them side by side. The FFT parts along with the Carriercomp/Geissele Hammer have better overall machining and polished edges. While the Carriercomp/Geissele Hammer appears to be polished better, I believe this is simply because FFT coated their parts with a nickel type finish. The trigger itself is NP3 coated. So expect your trigger to have a dull grey appearance after the install.

The installation instructions are thorough, although I would recommend they give a schematic picture with the kit for reference. Or Perhaps a few photos for reference. The install took me about 45 minutes. I was taking my time and had the help of a three year old. I took the time to clean out the trigger pack after 13k rounds.

The Trigger
Decock the hammer. Don't allow the hammer to slam against the trigger housing. Control its decent with your thumb as you pull the trigger. Tapping out the trigger pin (Part #20) is pretty easy. There doesn't seem to be much resistance. Once the pin is removed, the punch acts as a slave pin that holds the trigger assembly in place. Pay attention to part number 23 during the removal of the trigger pin. This is the shell release lever spring. You don't want to pinch the spring and bend it with your punch. I used a punch that was one size smaller than the OD of the pin so there was some room around the punch.

Use your thumb to relieve the spring tension from the trigger, and retain the trigger pack in the trigger housing as you remove the punch. The trigger will rock out of the housing and pull out. Be careful though, there is a spring along the bottom of the trigger (Part #7). Remove the spring from the trigger. This spring simply pulls out.

The Disconnector
The disconnector is held in place by a small pin (Part #2). Using a small enough punch, relieve spring tension on the disconnector and simply push Part #2 out. If it won't simply push out, you may need a 2 or 4 ounce hammer. Once removed, control the disconnector as it pulls out. The disconnector spring (Part #3) and plunger (Part #4) will simply pull out of the disconnector.

Installation of new Disconnector
Install the spring and plunger into the FFT disconnector. I recommend putting some thick lubricant on the plunger while you have it out. I use Brian Enos Slide Glide. Test fit the disconnector into the FFT Trigger. Compress the spring and plunger and align the pin hole on the trigger to the pin hole on the disconnector. The pin is very small and difficult to manipulate with your fingers. Once you align the holes properly, you should be able to simply press the pin in with finger tension.

Reinstallation of the Trigger Pack
I recommend a thick lubricant be applied to the engagement hooks of the disconnector and the trigger at this point. A small amount on the side of the trigger wouldn't hurt. Observe the original factory trigger. Look for wear marks. If it burnished in a specific area, apply a small amount of lubricant. Install the trigger spring (Part #7) into the trigger pack. The spring is simply a press fit. Rock the trigger pack into the trigger group. The trigger fits against a notch in the back of the trigger group housing. Look through the side of the trigger housing and visually align the the holes for the trigger pin. Insert the trigger pin (Part #20) from the left side. The Trigger pack will tap in fairly easily, however do not push the trigger pin all the way in yet. You need to reinstall the shell drop lever spring (Part #23) before inserting the trigger pin all the way into the trigger pack. This job would really benefit to having a second person. I didn't have one. So I held the trigger pack in one hand. My second hand had the hammer to tap the trigger pin (Part #20) from the left side. I then compressed the spring with a small punch. I had the punch guided with my hand that was holding the trigger group, and I had the end of the punch pressed off my chin. As soon as the spring was guided into place, I tapped the trigger pin (Part #20) into place which also retains the shell drop lever spring (Part #23).

Removal of the Factory Hammer
Make sure the hammer is decocked before beginning. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove The Trigger Guard Spring (Part #15). Once removed, press the Trigger Pin Bushing (Part #17) partially out. You do not want to remove this bushing completely. You only want to push it out far enough to remove the hammer.

Once out, I recommend pulling out the Hammer Spring (Part #10) and Hammer Spring Cap (Part #11). You will have to shift the Shell Release Lever (Part #18) over to get the engagement hook off of the top of the plunger. A lot of crap builds up inside here since it is impossible to clean out when assembled. Clean everything up and apply a thick lubricant.

Reinsert the Hammer Spring (Part #10) and the Hammer Spring Cap (Part #11). Re-engage the hook from the shell release. Apply a thick lubricant to the sides the hammer around the bushing hole. Lubricant should also be applied to the engagement hooks on the hammer and on the face of the hammer that contacts the bolt carrier. Press the Trigger Pin Bushing (Part #17) back into place. Reinstall the Trigger Guard Spring (Part #15) with the snap ring pliers. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated onto the groove. I tap on mine with a hammer and punch lightly to make sure it won't move.

Assembly and Testing
Reassemble the weapon after making sure all of your lubricant points are coated. Sometimes handling the parts during reassembly can wipe off much of the lubricant you might have placed. Make sure the weapon is empty. Cock the weapon and place the weapon on safe. Pull the trigger several times. Make certain that the hammer does not fall.

Remove the weapon from safe. Pull the trigger. Make sure the hammer falls. Do this several times to make certain that it is functioning properly.

Now, pull the trigger and hold it to the rear. Cycle the bolt handle to re-cock the weapon. Do not let off on the trigger during this process. This is to test the disconnector to make sure it is functioning. The hammer should not fall until you let off of the trigger and pull it again. Test this several times.

This process will spread the lubricant around and begin mating the engagement surfaces.

Conclusion
The trigger pull is certainly lighter and much more crisp. Some of this may be attributed to being cleaned after 13k rounds and properly lubricated. Installation was easier than I had expected. I also became a little more familiar with the inner workings of the trigger assembly. Such as, I do not believe the shell elevator deactivates the disconnector anymore. It seems the only thing that keeps the disconnector in play is the bolt carrier group pressing the hammer down. Once the bolt carrier group stops riding the hammer, the disconnector is no longer in play.

Is the trigger worth the price of admission? If it was simply about getting a better trigger, not really. It's nice, but it's a shotgun. Parts count wise, it is certainly worth it. Three US Made parts for 140 bucks shipped? I'm well over the required number of US Made parts now to use the collapsible stock. I get to use the factory handguards which is always desirable.
1. carriercomp Full length magazine tube
2. Brownells US Made magazine follower
3. FFT Trigger
4. FFT Disconnector
5. FFT Hammer

Installation was easier than expected. It would be a nightmare without the right tools though. You NEED to have a pair of snap ring pliers. Assorted punches. Lightweight hammer.

I'll try to get a few pictures. Sadly my camera was dead when the new parts arrived.

[StrangerDanger]

A couple overall shots. Weighed in at 10 pounds loaded.

[StrangerDanger]