The FAQ section on the Stoeger website says that I should shoot 100-200 rounds of "heavy shot" for a break-in period. The quetsion I have is.. what is "heavy shot?"
The FAQ section on the Stoeger website says that I should shoot 100-200 rounds of "heavy shot" for a break-in period. The quetsion I have is.. what is "heavy shot?"
Does it matter which # of shot?
Anywhere from 100 to 200 rounds of a heavy load should be fired through the new gun for proper break-in. This will prepare the gun for cycling light trap or hunting loads. The minimum load the Stoeger Model 2000 will cycle reliably after break-in is an 11/8 ounce and 3 drams of powder.
It calls for a heavy load, not heavy shot.Shoot something with a little more powder an lead during break in so that it will cycle properly.What Novaking suggests would be good. Make sure you clean it properly before break in.
Last edited by Red Huck; 07-12-2009 at 09:53 AM.
From the FAQ:
"Q: Does my Stoeger shotgun need to be broken in?
A: Only the Stoeger Model 2000 requires a break-in period. The first step after purchase is to clean the gun and oil it thoroughly. Anywhere from 100 to 200 rounds of a HEAVY LOAD should be fired through the new gun for proper break-in. This will prepare the gun for cycling light trap or hunting loads. The minimum load the Stoeger Model 2000 will cycle reliably after break-in is an 11/8 ounce and 3 drams of powder."
The shells Novaking suggested should work fine. Shot size doesn't matter. If you shoot these shells at a shooting range, make sure the range allows this heavy load. Ours does not.
No need to use "Hevi-Shot." That stuff is EXPENSIVE!!!
Ahhh. Good question from a new M2000 owner.
My opinion. The factory recommended break-in for that gun is overkill. It really looks like it was meant to compensate for the early, old style, M2000's relatively poor fit and finish.
I now suspect that the newer M2000 do not truly need 100-200 "heavy" rounds fed thru them to "break them in".
Here's why.
The newer guns made with CNC machining don't seem to have the burred (sloppy) bolt assembly and slide rails on the receiver. The fit of the barrel group to the receiver group is better. The massive amount of 100-200 rounds of "heavy shot" (it's 4-8 boxes of field loaded 1-1/4"oz plus ammo @ about 8$-$10 a box = $32 to $80 of ammo just to break-in a $369 gun!!BS on your poor tired shoulder after 100-200 rounds of shooting at nothing). The 100-200 heavy ammo break-in was to make sure the extreme jackhammer ramming of the shells would inherently chip, de-burr, and "file" the rough machine work, thus forcefully smoothing the action by "wear" and loosening any over tight springs. Breaking-in a part in, is the same as wearing it in, isn't it?
I would (and I am just a guy with an opinion, not a factory rep), first try to really get that gun clean of packing grease. LOOK carefully at the new gun internals and see IF you can find burrs or rough spots. See if the parts fit together perfect.
Then, when the gun is completely clean and assembled, a light lube of synthetic gun oil should get it ready. Check new M2000 guns for 1) loose torx screws 2) loose chokes (gun-choke lube will help) 3) loose bolt handles 4) cracked wood forearms 5) the release button WILL always be very stiff until you fire many rounds thru it, it's the nature of that gun.
Try a single box of 25 rounds of good quality 2-3/4" to 3" heavy ammo that have at least a min. 1-1/4 ounce of shot, fired by loading a single shell at time and firing a single shot at a time. Remington (like STS Pigeon loads), Winchester Super X (both have good ammo quality control so you know that a problem may be the gun, not the ammo)http://www.winchester.com/products/c...spx?bn=1&use=6
Try some single shots of heavy 3" out-of-season waterfowl or heavy turkey loads IF you get them cheap, or free (pay attention to your choke size with steel shot)!
After the first 25 round box of shells, take the gun APART. Look at what may be getting dirty. Look at what may be getting worn, look for new metal chips and metal buggers. Look for the "dimple" scar on the spent shell cup casing that will show you how deep and just where the firing pin hits the primer cup on the ammo.
Then clean the gun internals a little with a simple toothbrush of any heavy gunk, fouling, plastic bits etc. Maybe run a bore snake or simple brush rod to clean & clear the barrel. Make this a quick inspection of any abnormalities; and a light, superficial cleaning of any debri.
Re-Assemble the gun checking fit and tightness of your assembly carefully and remember not to forget the 2 odd washers in the forearm assembly. Now go out and try single loaded shot at a time of 25 rounds of good target loads (Rem STS or Win AA 2-3/4inch minimum 1-1/8 ounce loads). After 50-100 rounds of medium 'target' loaded 1-1/8 ounce ammo try inserting 2 rounds at a time and shooting 'doubles'. This will tell you how well the gun is feeding multiply rounds. It may take 100 (rarely 200) medium rounds to get the gun to cycle 3 multiple loaded shells. That is normal, on the gun and the new gun owner (especially the recoil operated guns of Benelli/Stoeger).
My point is simple. The M2000 should now fire those single shot 1-1/8 oz. target loads just fine after just one 25 round box of heavy ammo. You can now enjoy shooting at targets, or patterning your chokes, or even enjoy shooting clay birds for the simple "break-in" period of the gun. 100-200 rounds of 1-1/8oz medium loaded ammo sure is a lot cheaper AND will feel better on your body. If you feel that the medium loads don't seem to cycle; or have some problem, THEN switch up to a heavier loads and see if the problem goes away. If the problem persist, try to do the 100-200 heavy break-in, but I doubt it will solve a problem that deep.
I'm not saying to not "break-in" the gun, just simply saying that shooting 100-200 heavy field loads is excessive, cost expensive, boring, and will make you sore. If the gun doesn't (and shouldn't) need it...why do it?
In summary: Clean the new gun really well and lube it. Shoot 1 box (25rounds) of heavy 2-3/4" or 3" heavy game shells. Take gun apart inspect, lube, brush away debri, re-assemble. THEN switch to lots of 1-1/8ounce 2-3/4" quality target shells, and pay attention IF they don't work in the gun. You want to know WHY, they won't work and if something is wrong with a warrantied gun that is new.
Finally, always shoot your gun with a few of the exact game ammo rounds you will be using IF your are going hunting. It will be good to know just how that ammo feels, and shoots, before you pull the trigger on game.
{note:You can even sit on the couch and watch TV while you safely (unloaded!! & I put a sock over the barrel to show others it's safe) work the action back and forth, and also practice pressing that darn stiff release button with your opposite hand thumb. That will help any break-in.}
Last edited by Mr Slugo; 07-13-2009 at 02:38 PM. Reason: edit to be more specific
Thank you very much.
Bookmarks