choke tube oil

[The_Gun_Guy]

I have used birchwood&casey for all of my shotgun life and It cost 6$ for a 5cm half-squeezed tube

Does anyone know a of a cheaper or come with a decent amount of lube?

[Jon Ramsey]

I just spray my chokes with Rem-Oil.

[The_Gun_Guy]

thats kind of risky, isn't it flammable?

and is it really reliable. I only use choke lube for competetion because I don't want any malfunctioning when I'm on the spot.

my barrel will reach about 300 or so degrees and I nee d to be sure that the oil in the barrel is not going to catch fire, and still protect my barrel.

[Jon Ramsey]

hmmm.... I'll have to check on that. I've been using it for years, no 3 alarm fires yet. A normal day at the range for me is anywhere between 100 to 300 rounds. I don't put it in dripping wet though, just a film to protech it from rust and from seizing in the barrel.

[The_Gun_Guy]

after you clean it with the light coat does any of the gun powder that leaks in between the chokes dry up before you can wipe it off after shooting.

If you lost me please tell me because that was pourly worded.

[Norm_66]

I just always use Rem oil as well. I felt (right or not?) that choke lube oil was another specialty product that was more a case of someone trying to find a niche in a market versus something that is truly required. If you listen to all the product manufacturers, I'd have 20 different products to clean my gun. I use 2. But, That is just my opinion... If someone could definitively say I am risking something, I'll listen... Oh yeah, I clean my gun every time I use it as soon as I am done, so that may make a difference too.

[The_Gun_Guy]

It depend on what you have if you have several guns it is important to have a veriety of oils. However In your case I would limit the best working oil for each gun I use 3 becuase each specializes in removing a specififc fouling. giving me a total of 12 different oils. this is a list of oils that you will need though. You don't necessarily need them it's just what works best with each.

For shotguns, you need powder solvent
for pistols, you need hoppes semi-auto solvent
for rifles. you need hoppes Bench rest copper solvent.

If you have those three oils for specific guns you will find ease in cleaning and also you will have cleaned the bore better. also you shouldn't use just some oil to clean because it is a risk. It must say that it is OK to use in bores because that the standard oil is highly flamable and If you miss a little left behind in the bore it will ignite. you won't notice it but the extreme undistributed heat will cause severe damage to your barrel.

choke tube oil is not required you should be fine with rem oil but I would recomend it for competetion because I have seen other people have problems with there choke oil because it was just regular lube and they were firing several shots at a time.

yes cleaning your gun every time you use it will make a difference. if you let it sit the build up in the barrel is just getting more and more permenent.

[Jon Ramsey]

Well those are solvents, not oils......

I use good old hoppes #9 to clean my barrel and chokes, along with a bronze brush. (bronze won't scratch steel because it's softer than steel) Then I spray my freshly cleaned chokes with Rem-Oil, and store them in either a choke case or tube untill I'm ready yo use them. The barrell also gets a protective coating of Rem-Oil applied via a wool mop.

[The_Gun_Guy]

I need some advice on expert barrel cleaning. my father uses a escort 12 ga and I don't know what he did but it looks like he got some sort of burn on the barrel but it is shaped like a stain and looks like the insilation from buckshot or something did it from burning. And I can't remove it.

can anyone advise me on how to remove this? becaus I have never got it from any of my shotguns. And trust me I have already soaked it to death.

[Jon Ramsey]

Is this stain on the inside or outside of the barrel? If it's on the outside, what sort of finish does it have? (blued, parkerized, cameo) A picture would be very helpful. Perhaps a water spot, if so the only way to get rid of it would be to use steel wool and then reblue the spot in question, but it's hard to match factory bluing.