1. Be thrilled with 1 MOA and satisfied with up to 2.5 MOA.
2. gas with rotary bolt
3. 300-350 is not out of the question, but you're going to have to know and understand the exterior ballistics of your given load in order to affect hold over and windages.
Most factory ammo manufacturers have exterior ballistics tables posted on their websites. Make sure that you also understand that the test rifle's barrel lenght and your own may be different, with shorter barrels delivering lower velocities.
All of that said, you owe it the animal to not take any shot that you're not confident in making.
This means that you should practice frequently at the ranges at which you plan to shoot game.
If you cannot consistently hit a 6" plate at 300 yards, then don't attempt the shot.
4. The R1's trigger is HEAVY from the factory, and is not adjustable. An experienced gunsmith can polish the parts and reduce the drag bewteen the working parts to lower the pull weight. This will help with accuracy at any range.
Fluting the already pencil thin barel would be dumb.
Developing hand loads specifically for the given rifle always helps.
Shooting at longer ranges also involves having excellent optics that are properly mounted, as well as making sure that you understand the effects of canting a gun that was sighted in on level.
For the most part, if you're looking for a long range whitetail rifle, you've already made a mistake by buying a semi-auto with a lightweight barrel and a skinny forearm.
A quality bolt gun is the only way to go for long range shooting on any game, and then only with lots and lots of practice.
As you idea, Your picture don't very warm and wet. Have much die of bird. I think this isn't only a game.
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