Are caps interfering with cylinder turn?

**thebeeth** · 01-23-2005, 10:54 PM

After 3 or 4 usages, my revolvers ('51 navy, '60 army) won't turn the cylinder easily when pulling back on the hammer. Seems like the caps are rubbing against the frame. Am I doing something wrong? I've tried changing from #10 to #11 caps. Still happening. Help!!

**Rollershooter** · 01-24-2005, 12:50 PM

Originally posted by thebeeth:
After 3 or 4 usages, my revolvers ('51 navy, '60 army) won't turn the cylinder easily when pulling back on the hammer. Seems like the caps are rubbing against the frame. Am I doing something wrong? I've tried changing from #10 to #11 caps. Still happening. Help!!

These type firearms are notorious for fouling on the base pin. (the pin the cylinder rotates upon)
Put a good coating of bullet lube on the pin after a good cleaning. this should clear it up
Roller shooter

**thebeeth** · 01-24-2005, 01:24 PM

Thanks, Rollershooter. I failed to mention in my original posting that I'm a FANATIC about cleaning after shooting and always lube the base pin. That can't be my problem. It actually seems like the caps are not seating on the nipples properly and then rub along the inside of the recoil shield. I'm probably crazy! But again, thanks for your note. Any other ideas?!?!

**Gatofeo** · 01-26-2005, 11:01 PM

Just some thoughts:
1. Checked to see that all the nipples are fully screwed into the cylinder? One partially out might cause dragging.
2. A cap fragment dropped into the mechanism. Colt designs are notorious for this. It may be interfering with the hand or hammer.
3. The bolt spring partially broke or weakened, preventing the bolt from fully retracting. That drag you feel may be the bolt dragging on the cylinder.
4. Are you squeezing the caps slightly, into an elliptical shape, so they cling to the nipple better? This might cure the problem, since perfectly round caps on perfectly round nipples have a tendency to back away from the nipple during recoil, or to fall off altogether.
Caps falling off the nipple during recoil, thus exposing the a nearby loaded chamber to flame is, I firmly believe, the singlemost cause of multiple ignition. I've never believed that the flame comes in around a proper-fitting tight ball. Grease over the ball serves only as lubricant, not sealant, in my opinion.
Check the above and see if that cures your problem. Beyond that, and without being able to examine the firearms, I'm stumped.

I can't imagine any of the above happening to TWO revolvers.
I would thoroughly clean the cylinder pin and lubricate it with Crisco, Bore Butter or my personal favorite: CVA Grease Patch. It comes in a large, black squeeze tube and is not quite as thick as Crisco.
Also, I'd grease the sides of the hammer and the hammer channel in the frame. Often, these areas build with fouling and will making cocking difficult. I realize that this is not your problem but it's a good practice.

**thebeeth** · 01-28-2005, 09:44 PM

thanks for all your comments gatofeo--all worth looking into. And I will.

**Will** · 02-05-2005, 01:52 AM

Not sure, but sounds like the nipples are bradding from the hammer and as the lenth decreases the diamiter increases and won't let the caps fully seat. I've had that problem on a couple of Uberti's before. Usuly switching to a better nipple will sove the problem, Treso works well.

Does the gun do it after cleaning? If it only does it after 3-4 cylinder fulls it may be fouling build up on the nipples, but I've never had that problem.

Hope this helps