the condor not breaking when hot or dirty

[rsway123]

Had my 20 gauge barrel in the combo, it froze at 550 rounds, think the holes the that recieve the locking lugs where dirt. Maybe when hot, this grim keeps them from retracting

[austinite]

Will the gun break at all or is it completely frozen?

If it will break with some effort (like over your knee) take a look at the fired shotshells and see if there is a scratch across the primers.

It may be that the firing pins are not retracting completely. This could be caused by a broken pin (probably not likely if the gun is new) or the action may need cleaning to removing gunk that impedes the movement of the pins.

I am not aware of this problem with Condors but have seen it on other O/U's.

[JV]

I just bought the 20 youth model for my son and shot it over doves yest. and had the same problem. I had a concern about the 2nd barrel not firing when reading the other topics on this site, but HAD NO ISSUES firing the 2nd barrel. I shot around 50 rounds and had this lock up at least 10 times. It happened only when I shot BOTH barrels.
I will clean the heck out of it and see how it shoots over the weekend.

Any suggestions from the pros on this site would be welcom. thanks

[timb99]

JV

They pack these guns in thick cosmoline grease from the factory so they don't rust, and they absolutely need to be cleaned inside and out. Take the stock off and clean the action thoroughly, then lubricate lightly with RemOil or Amsoil Metal Protector. Break Free CLP is a great product too.

For cleaning, automotive brake cleaning solvent in spray cans works great, but be careful, it strips all the lubricants off so you need to coat them after using it. Another good solvent is Ed's Red. Go out on the internet and do a search on Ed's Red. It's equal parts transmission fluid, acetone, mineral spirits, and kerosene, mixed in a suitable container. DON'T GET EITHER OF THESE SOLVENTS ON YOUR STOCK! It will ruin the finish.

Keep the gun, especially the hinges and sliding surfaces cleaned and well lubed. The hinge pivot point, the sliding surface between the forearm and the receiver, and the little "extension" on the forearm that pushes on the lever that resets the hammers (cocking cam?) each have sliding surfaces that need grease.

I use synthetic all-purpose grease from Amsoil, but wheel bearing grease, Mobil 1, lithium grease, or the little tubes of grease you get to lubricate the pins on disk brakes also work fine.

Good luck.

Tim

[JV]

thanks tim, I saw your instructions on another topic. And followed them. Although I used Rem Cleaner. I happened only one time yest. but I only fired 12 times. Doves were not flyin.

[rsway123]

I am still having same problem. A friend sugested taking the stock of and inspecting the lug mechanism for burrs with a magnifying glass. I indeed found burrs in the holes that recieve the lugs from the reciever, and a small lip on one hole. On recomendation of people at the local skeet range. I knocked out the burrs using a drill bit by hand and lightly ground of the lip with small shapening stone. Looking into the holes there apears lots of scratches made i guess by the luggs(when hot mabey) but it looked rough. Do I dare use a polishing cloth to smooth the interior of those holes. I am new to this gun stuff, but i understand that needs to be a tight fit. I have not taken the stock off as I am to chicken.

[David M.]

Not to worry. Taking off the stock is child's play compared to the work you've already done.

timb99 has posted excellent instructions for cleaning and lubricating in other threads. The only thing I can add is that the stock bolt on my Condor takes an 11 mm socket. You will also need a 10 inch extension, or you could use a 3 inch extension together with a 6 inch extension.

Also, be careful not to overtighten when reassembling. Tighten just enough to remove play. You can always retighten later.

I'd try this before removing any more metal. Good luck.