Gas Piston

[stid2677]

Okay, so I shoot my R-1 a lot. After using this rifle all over Alaska it started to jam on me. When I say Jam I should say that the bolt would not go all the way forward and the trigger would pull and I would hear a click and it would not fire. I would have to recycle the bolt and fire again. I clean this gun like a fanatic, so I clean it again and still it continues to jam. After a while it gets so bad I can't count on it. I hunt bears in Alaska and I bet my life on my rifle and I need to know it will fire when I pull the trigger. I was in a fix, leaving for a hunt in a few days and my primary weapons is jamming. So I tear it down again, I notice that the gas piston feels tight. I remember the piston assembly moving freely with the bolt locked to the rear. Mine was binding badly. I removed the lock ring from the piston assembly and found it to be severely corroded between the rings and the piston itself. I could not find anywhere in the manual that said to clean the piston assembly this way. The corrosion was building up under the rings causing the piston to bind in the barrel. I cleaned the corrosion off and oiled the parts and reassembled the rifle and I and happy to say that she is back in the game. I have now added disassembling and cleaning the piston assembly to my cleaning plan. Hope this might help some others that have had trouble. I ordered a new piston assembly from Brownell's
This is the piston assembly
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/IMGP1784.jpg
corrosion under the rings
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/IMGP1786.jpg

[stid2677]

the corrosion after I cleaned off the gunk.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/IMGP1792.jpg
a view of some of the corrosion on the end of the piston as well, this may be caused from hot gas coming out of the barrel.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/IMGP1771.jpg

Steve

[tucker301]

Great post, Steve!
If I were you, I'd contact Benelli directly about this.
They need to see the degradation of the parts that's taking place.

Yes, some members of Benelli do read these forums, but I'd make it more official.

[parachute]

Great post Steve, thanks for sharing you experience. I guess I'm lucky, I have been cleaning that part.

Al

[shekaree]

Steve,

You are making history!!! Great job...

Thanks a million for sharing this info in details. I am sure lots of unhappy owners will be happy again.

[underwood]

Steve,
Great information. I'm having a similar problem on a Comfortech and I think that the assembly is a little different. I don't see a lock ring. Can anybody help me out?
Thanks

[stid2677]

Mine is the Comfortech, you have to remove the gas piston. Then remove the locking ring that holds the rings. With mine the trouble was gunk between the rings and the piston.
Steve

[underwood]

Thanks for the quick reply. At the moment the gas piston is in the gas collector cylinder and appears to be stuck there which is why the shells would not eject. I'm trying to figure out how to get it out or even move it.
Rich

[underwood]

I had a problem with shells not ejecting and while taking mine apart to see if I could find the problem I got on the forum and saw Steve's comments and pictures which were a big help. My problem was that the gas piston was stuck in the gas collection cylinder. It was stuck so tight that it wouldn't even wiggle. I put some lubricant on it and after some time I could start to wiggle it but not get it apart. I called customer service and had them look at Steve's comments and pictures told them what my problem was and asked if there were any special ways to deal with the problem. They said that I was on the right track and that it should come loose. They also said that I might take a hair dryer and try and heat it up a little. By tapping on it with a plastic hammer very lightly I end up getting the gas piston to come out but the rings stayed in the cylinder. I had to tap them out threw the top. My gas piston was in good shape but I think that enough crap was under the rings or in the cylinder that it caused the problem. Everything cleaned up fine and it's now back together. The piston moves freely and works like it should so all should be fine. I'll try it out in the next day or two and make sure then off to elk hunting on the Oregon coast. My guess is that this is an area that needs to be looked at and cleaned on a regular basis.

[PutEmDown]

Awesome post. Though, how did you get the lock ring off? I tried for about 10 minutes but could not get it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[PutEmDown]

How did you get the lock ring off? I can't get it. Thanks

[stid2677]

I used a set of lock ring pliers. You can buy them at an auto parts store.

Steve

[okabenellir1]

can you clean the rings on the piston assembly with a solvent cleaner???i just bought my r1 last week and want to make sure i do all the maintenance to make it as worry free as possible. thanks

[tucker301]

If the new Benelli MR1 (Beretta RX4) has the same gas system as the R1, then it's not going to hold up very well in its target market.

According to the literature I've seen, they use the same gas system. :(

[usagent14]

This whole piston thing is some fabulous information and I thank you for it...but that being said, it does not make me happy. While I absolutely love Benelli shotguns and find them to be flawless in extreme hunting conditions, I just don't think anyone should have to worry about this type of stuff if they are shooting a Benelli. Afterall, isn't that why you own a Benelli? I own an R1 in .308 with some gorgeous wood. I have used it in the field, but not to the extent as it sounds some of you have; and therefore, I have yet to experience any of these issues.....thank god. But when/if I do, I'd better get a little more advice/customer support than a gun smithing lesson on how to better clean my gun. Sorry, just how I feel when I own a spend hard earned money on a Cadillac and not on a Le Car.

[dillonious]

the piston is the most important part to clean on a gas opp rifle. It runs hot and dirty, which will cause carbon to build up and all kinds of issues. Things like this are not unique to Benelli...

[OhioM4]

Hey guys, I'm from the shotgun side. The pistons on the M4 shotgun look way different from the posted pictures. The M4 has twin pistons that are about 5"-6" long. They have multiple ribs with slots and move very freely in the piston sleeves. The M4 manual is very specific about NOT lubricating the piston. I suspect any oil residue would speed up the gunkification process.

I just saw the pictures of the MR1 Carbine and that may tempt me into my first rifle purchase. The body looks very similar to my M4. I'm curious as to what the gas pistons look like.

[7ov7]

300 WSM failed to cycle while in the field, while hunting. Tore it down, and found my piston corroded somewhat like Steves, and the end of it, at the snap ring, looks like it is flaking off. It does not look right. The inside of the tube has a pit in it as well. At most I have put a 100 rds through it!

Is this right? Is it covered under warranty? Is there a recall on this part?

[tucker301]

It should be under warranty.
Call Benelli CS on Monday.

[PutEmDown]

I read your post and looks like it will help in the future. My question is how did you get the rings off? Thanks

[Dr.Hook]

I bought my R1 in .300wsm 2 years ago. It failed on me at the worse possible time. (in the middle of a herd of elk) I contacted the factory and sent it in after the season. They said they couldn't see what was causing it and replaced the barrel. I got the rifle back and re-mounted the scope and went to site it in this season. It worked fine for the 8 shots I needed to site it in. I went out yesterday to fine tune it (hunting season starts in 4 days) It jammed after 2 rounds. The shell would eject, but the bolt would hang up when the new round was trying to chamber. I came home and stripped it and found the piston all carboned up. My question is-what is the best way to clean this crap off the piston and bore? I see pits in the bore as many of you have stated. How many rounds can you actually shoot before you need to worry about this? I have to tell you , i am very dissapointed in this gun, it shoots nice (when it works) and looks good but if I have to wonder if it will work when I need it then it really isn't much good to me. I have shot a total of 40 rounds through this gun so far. Does the type of ammo matter, is some of it better then others for an auto loader> I am shooting Winchester Accubond ammo. I have heard nothing but good things about Benelli guns over the past 30 years so decided to buy 1, not sure I made a good choice here. Could have bought 2 brownings for the price.:(

[tucker301]

Dr. Hook,
The one I had would foul heavily after just 20 or so rounds.
Brake cleaner and stiff brush about as well as anything.

[Dr.Hook]

Thanks Tucker for the info. By the way, the 1 you had? Did you have the same troubles and got rid of the gun?

[tucker301]

Yes, the piston fouling so quickly and so severely bothered me. That and the fact that the gun didn't have good return to zero after being disassembled.

It simply made no sense to have a rifle that needed to be cleaned so frequently, but also needed to checked for zero whenever it was taken apart and re-assembled.

I sold the R1 and opted for the BAR ShortTrac Stalker.
I am very happy with the Browning.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s117/tucker301/guns/th_bar308.jpg (http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s117/tucker301/guns/?action=view&current=bar308.jpg)

[tucker301]

OK. All of this talk of pistons got the best of me. So I grabbed my Browning BAR and took it apart.

This rifle has about 200 rounds through it, and I don't think I have ever had the piston out of it completely until today.
It's a bit of a pain to get out, due to some advanced disassembly work, but it's not too technical.
Just follow the guide in the manual and pay attention to what you're doing, and you'll be fine.

The piston is about as simple of a design as it gets.
Gasses from the barrel are imparted to the top of the piston.
The piston then pushes an inertia block rearward, which drives the dual action bars.
A very simple and efficient design. (note: inertia block has been removed in the photo)

The piston below was removed and wiped off with a lightly oiled rag, then wiped dry.
There was just a light powdery sooty coating on it, and it required no solvent to get clean.

Browning states in the manual to never oil the piston, but to merely wipe it down with a lightly oiled cloth.

There are no o-rings in the assembly.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s117/tucker301/guns/bar-piston.jpg

[tucker301]

Looking back on Steve's original post and recalling how my R1 was fouling in a similar fashion, I think the problem is coming from the way the R1 piston assembly traps hot gasses and attempts to hold them under pressure in the assembly.

The Browning releases the gasses quickly and allows for much more rapid cooling.
As you can see, all of the heat and pressure are applied to the top of the piston in the Browning, just like an internal combustion engine.
There is no sealed chamber between two cylinders to concentrate and retain the hot gasses.

It's a bit ironic that Benelli, a company which has built a stellar reputation for offering an alternative to the dirty gas piston systems in shotguns, has built their rifle on that exact design. :confused:

[stid2677]

I bought my R1 in .300wsm 2 years ago. It failed on me at the worse possible time. (in the middle of a herd of elk) I contacted the factory and sent it in after the season. They said they couldn't see what was causing it and replaced the barrel. I got the rifle back and re-mounted the scope and went to site it in this season. It worked fine for the 8 shots I needed to site it in. I went out yesterday to fine tune it (hunting season starts in 4 days) It jammed after 2 rounds. The shell would eject, but the bolt would hang up when the new round was trying to chamber. I came home and stripped it and found the piston all carboned up. My question is-what is the best way to clean this crap off the piston and bore? I see pits in the bore as many of you have stated. How many rounds can you actually shoot before you need to worry about this? I have to tell you , i am very dissapointed in this gun, it shoots nice (when it works) and looks good but if I have to wonder if it will work when I need it then it really isn't much good to me. I have shot a total of 40 rounds through this gun so far. Does the type of ammo matter, is some of it better then others for an auto loader> I am shooting Winchester Accubond ammo. I have heard nothing but good things about Benelli guns over the past 30 years so decided to buy 1, not sure I made a good choice here. Could have bought 2 brownings for the price.:(

I found that I had to clean mine after each and every firing. I found that the gas piston would corrode and get stuck between firings if I did not clean it after each use. You can remove the front grip and pull the bolt to the rear, the gas piston should move freely, it will get sticky as it fouls up. When it starts to get sticky, take it down and clean it. I hunt bears with mine so I don't mind cleaning it, has never failed me in the field.

Steve

[ArtL]

Not sure about the R1, but with my M1A which is a piston gun I clean the piston after shooting the weapon. This is the most important part of the weapon and without it functioning correctly there will be problems. With many piston guns you have to be careful what powder you use, if you reload, as to slow a powder can damage many of them. I use power with a medium burning rate, and don't know if you always use factory loads and if you ever clean the piston.

I don't care what the manufacturer says about not needing to clean a weapon (you name the part) I always do it. I have hunted in Alaska, Africa and many other places and don't need to face the elephant with a weapon that goes click when it should go bang....

[el_guero]

Thanks Steve!!!

I am just getting back into shooting, and I do not want to mess up my R1.

[el_guero]

OK. All of this talk of pistons got the best of me. So I grabbed my Browning BAR and took it apart.

This rifle has about 200 rounds through it, and I don't think I have ever had the piston out of it completely until today.
It's a bit of a pain to get out, due to some advanced disassembly work, but it's not too technical.
Just follow the guide in the manual and pay attention to what you're doing, and you'll be fine.

The piston is about as simple of a design as it gets.
Gasses from the barrel are imparted to the top of the piston.
The piston then pushes an inertia block rearward, which drives the dual action bars.
A very simple and efficient design. (note: inertia block has been removed in the photo)

The piston below was removed and wiped off with a lightly oiled rag, then wiped dry.
There was just a light powdery sooty coating on it, and it required no solvent to get clean.

Browning states in the manual to never oil the piston, but to merely wipe it down with a lightly oiled cloth.

There are no o-rings in the assembly.



Tucker,

They don't want you placing oil on the assembly, because then burning powder will stick and gum up the assembly really quick.

[el_guero]

Tucker,

I thought about my post, you probably already knew that.

[Dr.Hook]

once again the r1 failed me in the middle of an elk hunt. I had striped it and cleaned it very good before going out and it shot great 6 times then locked up again. It would shoot, eject, then the slide wouldn't go all the way back in. If I pulled the lever back and let it go it worked, but in the heat of hunting you are ejecting 1 live round per clip. I took the gun apart when I came home and it wasn't very dirty either so now I am really scratching my head. I e-mailed Benelli customer service 2 weeks ago and haven't heard a word from them.:mad:

[Uncle Russ]

Thanks much for this information. Now I don't feel silly because I strip my R1 down to this level regularly.

Uncle Russ

[okabenellir1]

that is so weird that there are so many reports of this gun failing. i hunt in canada where the conditions can get pretty ugly and it has never failed on me yet.

[daddyman]

Thank You okabenellir1 for the encouraging words... I have invested much into this rifle and feel sick every time I read a post debasing this rifle. I haven't even got to shoot it yet, so I lack my own experiences.

[parachute]

Tucker, you said that you sold your R1, did you feel guilty selling it to someone? I'd like to sell mine, but I'd feel guilty putting it on someone else. I e-mailed Benelli one time and ask them if they'd buy it back and I didn't get an answer.

Al

[stid2677]

I just want to make it clear that I really enjoy hunting with my R-1. Once I learned how to properly care for it, it has always fired when I pull the trigger. I spent 47 days in the field with it this year in some of the worst weather I have ever tried to hunt in. This is a buck I took with it on Kodiak Island, Alaska, we had near freezing rain and were operating from a salt water based boat. I just clean it after each hunt, takes only minutes and I have never had a problem with it loosing its zero. Always dead on after reassembly.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/Kodiak%202009/IMGP2255.jpg

Steve

[Canazes9]

Steve,

I haven't had my R1 nearly as long as you, but that has been my experience as well for the 200+ rounds that I've put through mine: Flawless autoloading operation, returns to zero every time, excellent accuracy.

David

[Bruno]

I've put close to 300 rounds through my R1 with out any issues.

[D.foece]

If it aint broke dont fix it I never had a problem with the gas operiating system on any of my ARs... One day I would at least like 1 gas piston upper in 5.56 but I dont see the huge benifit for the price. My 2 cents... In the end - if it makes you happy - GO FOR IT

[jpitt777]

You hear of problems with all semi autos, but these are great testimonies of consistency without issues. What would you say is the key in cleaning the gun to keep it from locking up?

[stid2677]

IMHO, One of the issues is that cleaning fluid from the barrel cleaning gets into the gas piston. This mixed with powder residue causes fouling and corrosion. Once I started cleaning after each use I had no more problems. I have owned other semi autos, plus I used an M-16 for many years and they were all the same, they required cleaning to function properly. If you don't like cleaning your rifle, buy a bolt action they will operate with less maintenance. After you master the take down and reassembly it only takes a few minutes to clean it.

Steve

[Uncle Russ]

Thank You okabenellir1 for the encouraging words... I have invested much into this rifle and feel sick every time I read a post debasing this rifle. I haven't even got to shoot it yet, so I lack my own experiences.

PLEASE don't get discouraged by this thread, or any of the others that describe problems with the R1. Just look at the thread just above yours, from the fellow in Canada.

I've had my R1 for over two years, have taken three nice deer with it, and shot about 250-300 rounds through it altogether, mostly trying to find the round it liked best for accuracy from 50 to 200 yds. Mine's a .308, and the round it likes best is the 150gr Hornady Custom SST, producing 3/4"x3/4" three-shot groups at 100yds and 200yds, betterr at 50yds. I've had zero failures, except at the very first when I used some MilSurp ball ammo that would not eject, which is typical of such ammo of unknown age and gosh-knows-where origin, and should not be used in anything but a bolt gun, at best - and I know better than that, but it was what I had and I wanted to get that first round down the barrel. It was a Xmas gift and all I wanted was for it to go "bang" when I pulled the trigger, so I could go home grinning and get past the "is it OK?" question.

I've seen many much more expensive gas autos have similar or other problems, as well as cheaper guns. Not to say that the R1 is cheap - far from it, which is why when there's a problem it seems worse. But this is a super piece of equipment. And I think the vast majority of owners don't have these problems, or if they do, they have quite good success dealing with Benelli directly.

Just enjoy it.

Uncle Russ

[Olga]

Do you clean the rings only or do you also somehow clean the cylinder? As the cylinder is attached on the barrel I am not sure how to clean it...

[Dr.Hook]

I have a question for every one out there that has not had problems with this gun. What type of ammunition are you guys useing? I had a gun dealer tell me to try a different brand as some maufacturers use slower/faster burning powders. My gun is a .300 WSM and so far I have shot 50 rnds through it in 2 years and it has failed me 3 times. I am useing Winchester accubond amunition. Thanks for any help.:confused:

[stid2677]

Do you clean the rings only or do you also somehow clean the cylinder? As the cylinder is attached on the barrel I am not sure how to clean it...

You will need to break the rifle down, make sure to read back and know how to remove and clean the gas piston, making sure to remove and clean behind the rings as well. After I've cleaned the barrel, I clean the inside of the gas piston port on the barrel. I break mine down after each trip to the field and after firing. I never store it dirty, because I have had the piston get stuck inside the gas port. I also prefer to clean the barrel from the breach using a bore guide to save damage to the chamber. This also prevents cleaning fluids from being pushed down the barrel and into the action and helps prevent damaging the crown with the cleaning rod.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/Rifles/IMGP2435-1.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/Rifles/IMGP2445.jpg

[Olga]

You will need to break the rifle down, make sure to read back and know how to remove and clean the gas piston, making sure to remove and clean behind the rings as well. After I've cleaned the barrel, I clean the inside of the gas piston port on the barrel. I break mine down after each trip to the field and after firing. I never store it dirty, because I have had the piston get stuck inside the gas port. I also prefer to clean the barrel from the breach using a bore guide to save damage to the chamber. This also prevents cleaning fluids from being pushed down the barrel and into the action and helps prevent damaging the crown with the cleaning rod.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/Rifles/IMGP2435-1.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r233/stid2677/Rifles/IMGP2445.jpg

Steve, thanks for making the effort to share these pictures! I have the same green RCBS handle but I don't have the brush you have on it. What kind of brush is it? Do you use solvent on it to clear the cylinder?

I only had 80 rounds through mine R1 (all recent, within one weekend) yet it took me about an hour to scrub under the rings and especially the pin that goes inside of the piston. Do you clean that pin as well? I had to completely remove it from the receiver to clean it all up.

Regarding bore guide- I bought the same one you have but never used it because it is not tight enough to align the rod properly. I am getting a custom bore guide made that will keep the rod straight.

[stid2677]

I believe the brush is from my shotgun set 12ga. I use breakfree to clean the gas port, the piston and the rings. I also remove the O-Rings then the piston and clean the rod that the gas piston rides on. When assembled I always pull the bolt back and I make sure that the gas piston moves freely. When it starts getting fouled, it will become hard to move and feel sticky. when mine does this the bolt will often fail to lock into battery and the firing pin will not strike the primer.


Sounds like you have a handle on it.

Enjoy your rifle

Steve

[Dr.Hook]

So what brand of ammunition are you fellas that don't have the fouling problem useing? I really like the way this gun shoots and feels and am not ready to give up on it just yet. I am in the process of assembling my gun again after an extensive cleaning and want to try a different brand of ammo this time just for a test. Thanks guys..:confused:

[Veduci]

What caliber do you shoot?

[Veduci]

Dr. Hook, I agree! We need to know ammo type AND caliber from those having problems.

[energizer]

I am new to the benelli but I read ohiom4 s comment that no lubricant or solvent should be used. I just bought mine and have not even fired it yet. I looked at the gas tube and wondered how to clean it. I thought maybe spay solvent in there. I wonder how many others did just that before reading otherwise. Now that I think on it solvent would just cause the powder residue to stick to the tube. Keep up the tips. I joined to learn. THanks

[mihaiman]

Hello, my name is Mihai, I am from Romania and I've just bought an Benelli R1 Confortech. The model is for USA ( 56 cm, not 51cm like in europe) and the piston is with rings. Here in Europe just came up a new type of piston. What do you know about this?i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv351/violiv/P1000727.jpg

[tucker301]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv351/violiv/P1000727.jpg

[Veduci]

What ammo do you shoot?

[Veduci]

that is so weird that there are so many reports of this gun failing. i hunt in canada where the conditions can get pretty ugly and it has never failed on me yet.

What ammo do you use?
Is this caliber specific?

[6XLeech]

Great thread. Thank you, stid2677 for all the analysis, lessons and photos that make this thread so helpful.

Tucker301's post (#25) comparing the BAR's piston mechanism is interesting too.

My daughter is shooting an R1 in .270WSM - shooting well and enjoys it. She was able to make the transition from .243Win in 2 sessions at the rifle range. Of course, I "tested" the rifle too and that gas piston action really makes for a sweet shooting rifle; well balanced and easy handling. I can see how follow-up shots would be quick in the field too.

This R1 gets completely disassembled and cleaned after each range trip - due to this thread. I knew what we were getting into well before purchasing the rifle. Using the lock-ring pliers as stid2677 suggested makes the whole job easy. It takes awhile longer than my bolt gun, but that's just part of the tradeoff when one gets into an R1. Great rifle for our situation.

Thanks to Steve, and others on this very informative thread. Best wishes in the season ahead.

[Dr.Hook]

:( Well the R1 is stripped and boxed and ready to go back to the factory for yet another warranty issue. I am shooting a .300 wsm and have tried both winchester accubond (180 gr) and then tried Federal Premium Vital-Shok (180gr) neither of these brands shoot out of my gun reliably. I don't think I have shot a total of 50 rounds through this gun and it has failed me for 3 consecutive elk hunting seasons. Had to finish the season all 3 times with my trusty Ruger bolt action. I really love the way the R1 shoots and handles but am getting really discouraged in the reliability of it. Maybe I just got a hold of a lemon? I clean this gun after every use and it doesn't really appear to be that dirty either so I am really at a loss. I am not giving up yet though. Thanks for all the input I have learned alot reading these posts. Dr. Hook

[swvoss]

Dr Hook, i have the same gun, same caliber and have shot the same ammo. i have never had a jam or anything even close with any heavy loads. i have noticed questionable but OK performance on 130 grain ammo, the kick is noticeably softer and that had me worried but so far never needed a quick follow up for any attacking whitetail. :)

i think you may have a lemon.

[swvoss]

If you could really buy two Brownings for the price go ahead I will take one............or you paid too much for your R1.

[Mak_Exine]

wonder if an SKS gas piston system could be modified to work...

[CoyoteCarbine223]

I have a question.....do you just slide the gas piston assembly over the rubber o ring or do you take the o ring off first?

I took mine apart for the first cleaning tonight and the piston assembly slid right over the ring with little friction. Seemed to be the way to do it but will it ruin the rubber o ring?

Thanks for the info!

[KMRDragon]

I've fired 8 rounds through the R1 and almost didn't get the barrel removed from the piston because it was soundly stuck. I can see carbon fouling inside the piston chamber. Is brake fluid the best to remove it? I can tell you regular bore cleaner won't touch it. I can see the retaining ring on the piston, but I'm unclear how to remove it? Also I'm using federal 180 power shock. Is there anyone who has used a different amo with less piston and chamber problems?

Thanks!

[Planetcat]

KMRDragon I am having the same problem with not even a box of shells shot through mine. I have the 300 wm in the comfortech. I have had the best luck accuracy wise with Hornady 165 grain but this gun is fouling like crazy. I love everything else about it but something just isnt right with these rifles. I called Benelli to see what they had to say and they kind of acted like they didnt know anything about it but they were nice enough to send me a new gas piston free of charge. They said they wanted to see if this will fix the problem before I send it in. These rifles should not be gumming up like they do.

Are you using the Superformance loads? I have been using the "regular" interbond's in 165 gr. with my .300 wm for a few years without any fouling problems. I belive the superformance loads are not designed for short gas port rifles. I also shoot 165 gr. fusions and power shocks at the range to sight in with. My R1 is probably over 7 years old though and the piston is like a collection box for burnt powder, but it's never caused any cycling problems. Probably the most I've gone is about 100 rounds before cleaning. I use brake cleaner or B-12 chemtool and then oil the little o-ring after I'm done.

[k way]

Sorry but being a Benelli doesn't make it immune from getting corroded. any time a gas system is the main component making a gun cycle that gas system needs to be cleaned periodically. When someone comes out with a self-cleaning gun we'll be able to complain about paying a lot for it and it not doing it's job. Until then we need to understand how our weapons work and to make sure that at least the most important operating parts are well maintained.

[Saw Doctor]

My rifle has the updated piston and manual.In the manual it states specifically to disassemble and clean the piston for storage.The piston itself is a more robust design and and should not be an issue with proper mantainance.As far as I'm concerned the piston is a non issue on the new Benellis.

[dokoliday]

Hi Newbee here!

Just bought an M4 and R1 then sent them out to Robar guns to add NP3+ to avoid any problems like those mentioned.
Robar guns is the company that benelli has used just last year to add NP3 to the M4 H2O limited edition. This is a electroless nickel plating with impregnated PTFE. The new product is called (+) and is 7 times more resistant to corrosion than the original NP3. Every metal part of the guns are exploded apart to the smallest pins, metal stock pipe, pins and trigger assembly... the whole shebang. Any parts that are treated with chrome or anything otherwise is stripped and then everything is treated and bonded at the molecular level. Bore is of course NOT treated. Take a look at the images of the M4 H2O and research this product it is not painted on or otherwise and is guaranteed not to corrode or scratch off for as long as you own it! This month there is 15% off the finishing process. Yes it is a pretty penny but it should give me the peace of mind I need to enjoy this fine gun like Stid with very little maintenance. Cost $450 for complete gun including pic rail. Perhaps a user of the M4 H2O could chime in if they see this post. I will put up pics when I get them back. One other draw back 8-12 week process and shipping costs. Any input from senior members?