R1 in .308 accuracy

[TomA]

I'm having trouble getting better than a 4" 100 yard group off a bench. I've tried Winchester Supreme 150gr ballistic silvertip, and Hornady 150 gr SST. Does anyone have any suggestions? The terrible trigger doesn't help.

[tucker301]

Tom,
Welcome to the R1 club!

First and foremost, ANY rifle barrel should be properly broken in to insure accuracy and longevity.
Break In Procedures (http://www.jarheadtop.com/article_gfbreakin.html)

I don't know your level of knowledge or experience, so please don't be insulted if any of the following seems rudimentary to you.

Best Practices:

Scopes -
Do your R1 justice by using quality optics.

Make sure the scope is mounted properly.
Most shooters like to apply a thin coat of blue loctite to the base screws. Clear nail polish also works well.

If using STD single or dual dovetail rings, use an alignment tool and NEVER turn in rings using the scope!

On slotted Weaver style rings or QD rings, use quality materials. I like Leupold rings, and they offer a great one for the R1's Picatinny rail.

Select a ring height that will keep the bell of the scope close to, but not touching the barrel.

Lapping the rings is something every professional should do when mounting fine optics, but few do.
Believe me, it's worth the effort.

When mounting the scope, always check to make sure the rings are aligned and that there are no stress points or pinch points. The scope should lie snugly in the bottom rings and should freely rotate by hand.
Make sure the scope is level and the eye relief is set correctly before tightening the ring screws.
Tighten the screws by evenly alternating side to side and front to back. Don't tighten one ring set completely, and then the other! Keeping even pressure as you go insures a proper mount.
Tighten the rings securely, but do not stress the fit by overtightening and forcing them to crimp the scope's tube.

Ammunition:
All R1's come with a 1-11 twist rate. That's one revolution per 11 inches of barrel length. By comparison, a quality bolt action rifle may have the higher rate of 1-10.
The rule of thumb is that the slower rates like the shorter bullets. It takes more spin to stabilize a longer projectile - less spin for shorter ones.
Since your barrel's diameter is unchanging, the difference in bullet weights has to come from the shape and length of the bullets themselves.
Long story made short, you may benefit from a lighter .308 round as opposed the heavier ones.
You're already on track with this, but I'm just letting you know that moving up to 165's or 180's will not be likely to improve things.

My R1 is a 22" 30-06, and it likes the Remington Premier Accutip 150's better than anything I've fed it to date.

Shooting
Shoot from a steady rest, preferably from front and rear bags.
The barrel should never contact the front rest, or anything else for that matter.
Mkae sure you are comforatable and have a firm, but not deathly tight grip on the rifle.
Try to be conscious of your position and grip and repeat them as best you can from shot to shot.
Make sure you're not flinching. It's much easier to flinch with a heavier trigger, so the R1 isn't cutting you any slack in that department.
Even though the R1 is a semi-automatic weapon, the barrel is quite lightweight. This and the fact that it's mechanically tied to parts forward of the action tend to work against accuracy.
It's also very succeptible to heat variations, so expect groups to open up if the barrel isn't allowed ample time to cool between shots.

Tweaking the R1:
The R1 is a semi-automatic hunting rifle. Don't expect it to shoot 1/2" groups like a quality bolt action varminter.
However, you should expect and strive for the best the rifle is capable of doing.
I can tell you that the R1 is capable shooting 1" - 2" groups, so there's room for improvement.

If you've disassembled your R1, you've seen the barrel locking cap, and you've probably noticed the red indexing marks on it and its matching mated part.
What the manual doesn't tell you is that after just a few rounds of firing, the tolerances seem to settle in and further tightening may be needed.
Mine has had about 60 rounds through it, and I'm at two clicks past the factory setting.
This has improved accuracy considerably on my R1, and I would expect similar results on yours.

NOTE: edited 11/25/05 - The newer R1's now come with a new spring-loaded barrel cap which has eliminated the indexing system. If your gun has the indexed cap, you can request a new style cap from Benelli. They sent mine at no charge, but I can't promise the same for you.

I know the trigger pull is annoyingly heavy, but when you consider today's courts being flooded with lawsuits by morons who assume no personal responsibilities for their own actions, and being rewarded for it, I can see why gunmakers err on the side of caution.

DO NOT atttempt to adjust the trigger pull!
If you want it to better, take it to a skilled gunsmith and ask him to polish the mating surfaces.

Additional tweaks include placing an oiled o ring under the forearm retaining nut/sling mount to prevent it from loosening during use, and applying a light one or two coats of finish to the inside of the forearm to make clean-ups easier and faster.

[ 11-25-2005, 08:54 PM: Message edited by: tucker301 ]

[TomA]

Originally posted by tucker301:
Tom,
Welcome to the R1 club!

First and foremost, ANY rifle barrel should be properly broken in to insure accuracy and longevity.
Break In Procedures (http://www.jarheadtop.com/article_gfbreakin.html)

I don't know your level of knowledge or experience, so please don't be insulted if any of the following seems rudimentary to you.

Best Practices:

Scopes -
Do your R1 justice by using quality optics.

Make sure the scope is mounted properly.
Most shooters like to apply a thin coat of blue loctite to the base screws. Clear nail polish also works well.

If using STD single or dual dovetail rings, use an alignment tool and NEVER turn in rings using the scope!

On slotted Weaver style rings or QD rings, use quality materials. I like Leupold rings, and they offer a great one for the R1's Picatinny rail.

Select a ring height that will keep the bell of the scope close to, but not touching the barrel.

Lapping the rings is something every professional should do when mounting fine optics, but few do.
Believe me, it's worth the effort.

When mounting the scope, always check to make sure the rings are aligned and that there are no stress points or pinch points. The scope should lie snugly in the bottom rings and should freely rotate by hand.
Make sure the scope is level and the eye relief is set correctly before tightening the ring screws.
Tighten the screws by evenly alternating side to side and front to back. Don't tighten one ring set completely, and then the other! Keeping even pressure as you go insures a proper mount.
Tighten the rings securely, but do not stress the fit by overtightening and forcing them to crimp the scope's tube.

Ammunition:
All R1's come with a 1-11 twist rate. That's one revolution per 11 inches of barrel length. By comparison, a quality bolt action rifle may have the higher rate of 1-10.
The rule of thumb is that the slower rates like the shorter bullets. It takes more spin to stabilize a longer projectile - less spin for shorter ones.
Since your barrel's diameter is unchanging, the difference in bullet weights has to come from the shape and length of the bullets themselves.
Long story made short, you may benefit from a lighter .308 round as opposed the heavier ones.
You're already on track with this, but I'm just letting you know that moving up to 165's or 180's will not be likely to improve things.

My R1 is a 22" 30-06, and it likes the Remington Premier Accutip 150's better than anything I've fed it to date.

Shooting
Shoot from a steady rest, preferably from front and rear bags.
The barrel should never contact the front rest, or anything else for that matter.
Mkae sure you are comforatable and have a firm, but not deathly tight grip on the rifle.
Try to be conscious of your position and grip and repeat them as best you can from shot to shot.
Make sure you're not flinching. It's much easier to flinch with a heavier trigger, so the R1 isn't cutting you any slack in that department.
Even though the R1 is a semi-automatic weapon, the barrel is quite lightweight. This and the fact that it's mechanically tied to parts forward of the action tend to work against accuracy.
It's also very succeptible to heat variations, so expect groups to open up if the barrel isn't allowed ample time to cool between shots.

Tweaking the R1:
The R1 is a semi-automatic hunting rifle. Don't expect it to shoot 1/2" groups like a quality bolt action varminter.
However, you should expect and strive for the best the rifle is capable of doing.
I can tell you that the R1 is capable shooting 1" - 2" groups, so there's room for improvement.

If you've disassembled your R1, you've seen the barrel locking cap, and you've probably noticed the red indexing marks on it and its matching mated part.
What the manual doesn't tell you is that after just a few rounds of firing, the tolerances seem to settle in and further tightening may be needed.
Mine has had about 60 rounds through it, and I'm at two clicks past the factory setting.
This has improved accuracy considerably on my R1, and I would expect similar results on yours.

I know the trigger pull is annoyingly heavy, but when you consider today's courts being flooded with lawsuits by morons who assume no personal responsibilities for their own actions, and being rewarded for it, I can see why gunmakers err on the side of caution.

DO NOT atttempt to adjust the trigger pull!
If you want it to better, take it to a skilled gunsmith and ask him to polish the mating surfaces.

Additional tweaks include placing an oiled o ring under the forearm retaining nut/sling mount to prevent it from loosening during use, and applying a light one or two coats of finish to the inside of the forearm to make clean-ups easier and faster.

[TomA]

Thanks tucker 301! First, I didn't do the break in. I just cleaned barrel prior to shooting. I'll do the cleaning procedure before trying to sight in again.

As for scope, i've got a 8x56 fixed Swarovski with good rings and mounting technique, so I should be ok there.

Ammunition. I called Hornady, told them what I'd already shot, and was advised to try the 165 gr btsp, which I've already ordered. I guess I'll give it a try after the barrel break in. I'll also re-try the Winchester and 150 gr Hornady.

Tweaking. I'll check the indexing mark, and tighten if loose. I'll also add an oiled O-ring. Probably wait till after deer season to try to find a gunsmith to polish the trigger. So far, no one has been willing to do this for me; liability problems I guess.

Thanks again, and I'll let you know how it goes.

[Rosco]

hello gentlemen, I am shooting an r1 in 308 and am also having a hard time grouping. Ive got a Burris 4x12 50mm Euro Diamond scope with Leupold rings, Remington 150 grain core loct is the worst grouping ive tried best ive been able to achieve is with the Hornady 150 sst, interbond same grain, first shot out of a cold barrel is usually right on the money, anyone tried black hills or ballistic silvertips?

[Ivanab]

I have a 30-06 carbine R-1. It will shoot 1" - 1.5" groups at 100 yards with winchester silvertips.

I recently purchased a 300mag in the R-1, but have not shot it yet.

[DreamHuntz]

Originally posted by TomA:
I'm having trouble getting better than a 4" 100 yard group off a bench. I've tried Winchester Supreme 150gr ballistic silvertip, and Hornady 150 gr SST. Does anyone have any suggestions? The terrible trigger doesn't help. My R-1 loves 150 grain Remington pointed soft point. I recently shot several 3-shot groups @ 100 yards that were between 1/2" to 1". ( you can cover the entire group under half of a quarter).I was actually amazed! As far as the trigger, try looking at it as a positive instead of a negative. To sensitive of a trigger on a semi-automatic isn't a good thing. I hated the trigger on my rifle when I first bought it, but the more I shot it... the more accurate I became.While the triggers on these guns are stiffer than we'd like... they are pretty smooth.

[DreamHuntz]

Originally posted by Rosco:
hello gentlemen, I am shooting an r1 in 308 and am also having a hard time grouping. Ive got a Burris 4x12 50mm Euro Diamond scope with Leupold rings, Remington 150 grain core loct is the worst grouping ive tried best ive been able to achieve is with the Hornady 150 sst, interbond same grain, first shot out of a cold barrel is usually right on the money, anyone tried black hills or ballistic silvertips? My R-1 .308 winchester shoots the 150 grain Remington pointed soft point like a champion bench gun. 1" groups or less @ 100 yards. I am considering using it for a varmit gun.

[Alien Attack]

Any new information on this topic? I have a 30-06 R1 and after approx. 100 rounds, the smallest group I've gotten was ~1" (with a friends handloaded ammo). This only happened once. The rest of the groups where between 3" - 4" with 4" being the norm. I've tested 4 different ammo manufacturers and I can't remember how many different bullet weights.

The barrel was broken in properly, and I've had 3 different people (with known ability to shoot small groups with other firearms) shoot the firearm with the same result as me. I know it's not my shooting as I've obtained acceptable accuracy with the many other rifles I own.

Now I understand that the R1 is not suppose to shoot VERY small groups, but the above is completely unacceptable, especially when others that have this rifle are shooting very acceptable groups (1" or less).

What seems wierd about this issue is there seems to be only 2 results from this rifle in terms of accuracy.

Result 1: You obtain great groups and have no problems with the rifle's accuracy.

Result 2: You cannot seem to get the rifle to preform to acceptable accuracy standards.

These results make me think that maybe there is something (maybe a small unknown manufacturing difference) that is causing some rifles to be accurate and others not.

I have a SBE II and now an R1. With the exception of the accuracy issue (unfortunately a big issue for me) I love the R1 and wish to keep it. At this point though unless I can figure out what's going wrong I believe my only option is to sell it and obtain a different rifle.

One other thing I've noticed is that the spent cartradges seem to have a small dent in the neck of the case. It seems as though the case is being dented in the extraction process some where. This might not have anything to do with accuracy (or maybe it does) but something to think about.

Any and all information would be greatly appreciated.

[ 10-12-2005, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]

[DreamHuntz]

Alien Attack,
I have a R-1 in .308 win. which is pretty close to your 30/06 ballistically speaking. I have shot many different loads trying to optimize my 3 shot groups.I can tell you that my gun doesn't shoot fancy high tech ammo very well. I get the best performance out of simple over the counter Remington 150 gr. pointed soft point core lokt. They are one of the shortest length bullets and seem to stablize faster for more accurate flight to the target. My gun shoots this ammo in the 1/2"-1" groups which is actually as good or better than my Remington model 700 bolt in .308. I handle my gun several times each daily and dry fire it to breack in the trigger. It has loosened up substantically without any modification on my part.

[Alien Attack]

I'm still doing research, but what's the final word on the locking cap affecting accuracy? I see the post about it, but there didn't seem to be any final word. After initial shooting, my forearm was loose, so I tightened down the locking cap as much as possible... it seems feasible that this could affect accuracy. I'm pretty sure that I have the new locking system as I bought my gun in august of this year. Any thoughts on this?

[ 10-12-2005, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]

[garren]

[ 03-22-2006, 11:10 AM: Message edited by: garren ]

[GlennRoss]

AA,

Look to the middle photo on this page displaying the torque locking system:

http://www.benelliusa.com/firearms/r1.tpl

If yours look like this, then you're good. I bought mine in June 2005 and got the older Index locking system. There is no giant spring, but it has a locking cap with a spring loaded ball bearing that lines up with corresponding detents in the gas port housing.

I doubt that the retaining nut that holds the forearm affects accuracy more so than the locking cap. Really though, anything that comes loose and vibrates may affect accuracy to a degree. So, I suggest you get the small rubber washer Tucker suggets and eliminate that possibility. It was 27 cents at Home Depot.

Those are my thoughts on whatever the heck day it is 2005.

-Glenn

[Alien Attack]

Well here are the results... it's obvious that the "tightness" that the barrel cap is screwed down to affects the accuracy:

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/GROUPS.png (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

Group A: The first three shots, barrel cool time was ~30 seconds in between.

Group B: Waited until the barrel was cool again. The second three shots, barrel cool time was ~30 seconds in between.

Group C: In a hunting situation, you might not have 30 seconds to let the barrel cool, so I fired off 3 shots, with a wait time ~ 5 - 8 seconds (just enough for target aquisition and fire). Then Immediately reloaded and fired 3 more shots with the same time delay.

Group D: Barrel allowed to cool, and three more shots where taken. This was one of those where every shot I took, I could feel wasn't correct right when I shot it.

Conclusion: MAKE SURE YOUR BARREL CAP IS TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY (That reads: Tighten until it turns NO MORE).

NOTE: I'm sure the error in all of the groups (that is they're not 1/2 to 3/4") was because of me, and not the rifle. However, these were what I call acceptable.

[ 10-14-2005, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: Alien Attack ]

[tucker301]

Alien,
Nice shooting!
Those groups are fine for a semi-auto hunting rifle.
I like the way you shot group C to mimic realistic hunting situations.

Are you using the new spring tension cap or the old indexed style?

[garren]

[ 03-22-2006, 11:11 AM: Message edited by: garren ]

[garren]

[ 10-16-2005, 12:03 AM: Message edited by: garren ]

[Alien Attack]

tucker301,

I agree! Those groups are completely acceptable to me! I recently dumped a 14" pronghorn at 200 yds using it, so no problem at those ranges either.

I'm using the new spring tension cap.

garren,

In those recent target pictures there really weren't any errors. I really only mentioned errors becuase of group D being a little sloppy compared to groups A & B. I still think I could tighten the groups if I wanted, but really don't need to put that much effort into it.

[tucker301]

garren,
There's nothing wrong with having a .30 claiber shooting 1.5" - 2" high at 100 yards.
This allows the shooter to still hold dead on target at 200 without worrying abiut compensating.

[DreamHuntz]

Alien,
I take it that you were 0'ing in your rifle at 2" high @100 yds. My gun was shooting groups very similar to the targets pictured above which are reasonably good by any standard but I was convienced that the R-1 could still perform better or that I could learn to shot it better.The last time I went to the range I took a shooting stand with sand bags and ear muffs ...it made a huge difference for me. You might consider trying this if you haven't already done so. What brand ammo and bullet grain did you shoot. Oh...by the way target "C" is looking ...lets say "DEADLY". You should have plenty of venison in the freezer this winter.

[Alien Attack]

DreamHuntz,

Ya, it is suppose to be a 2" high zero @100 yds. That way as Tucker301 said it would be dead on @200 yds. The first hunt I took this rifle on was a Wyoming antelope hunt. Even without the barrel cap tightened it still dropped the speed goat at 200 yds no problem.

Those targets were shot using hearing protection , a shooting rest, and 150 grain Winchester Ballistic Silvertips. A friend that handloads says he could never get ballistic tips to preform very good and that I could probably get better performance out of 165 grain non-ballistic tip ammo. I'll be going to the range again soon and I'll be interested to see how some other loads preform.

Yes, C is looking VERY deadly. That's a WHOLE lotta lead in a target. The next time I go to the range I might do the same thing with 9 or 12 rounds... just for the fun of it.

The only thing I'll be looking to do now is either get the comfortech stock or a new R1 with the comfortech already on it.

[garren]

[ 03-22-2006, 11:11 AM: Message edited by: garren ]

[tucker301]

I haven't had mine out.
It's probably set in there with high strength loctite.
My require heating to break loose.

[tucker301]

You do know that the piston tube will, with a bit of force, slide off towards the muzzle... over the two o rings?

Put a drop or two of oil on the o rings, then twist and pull the tube off.
This gives full access to the nasty cylinder plunger pin.

Post back if you need a better description and I'll try to upload a picture for you.

[garren]

[ 03-22-2006, 11:12 AM: Message edited by: garren ]

[tucker301]

http://www.gemsdesigns.com/images/r1-pistontube.jpg

Put a couple of drops of oil on the two o-rings, then slide the piston tube off by giving it a firm steady pull while twisting.

[garren]

[ 03-22-2006, 11:12 AM: Message edited by: garren ]

[tucker301]

Yes, it's fine.
Just use the Benelli or similar quality gun oil.
No WD-40.

[DreamHuntz]

Originally posted by Ivanab:
I have a 30-06 carbine R-1. It will shoot 1" - 1.5" groups at 100 yards with winchester silvertips.

I recently purchased a 300mag in the R-1, but have not shot it yet. I just noticed that you already owned a R-1 in the 30/06 caliber and recently purchased another in rifle in 300. win. too. Did you ever consider just buying the the 300 Win barrel since they are supposed to be interchangable? I believe it is supposed to be about half the price of buying the entire rifle. This was one more reason I decided to buy the R-1 myself. I had originally wanted a 300 win myself but changed my mind to the 308 win instead. I am very pleased with the performance. I have had several Browning BAR and Remington 7400 owners tell me about their displeasure of owning both of those rifles. Everything from hanging up when extracing spent rounds to beating the scopes off their guns and not being to keep them sited in.

In making my decision when it came to selecting the caliber I liked the fact that while very accuate the .308 win has the least violent recoil and would be less likey to abuse my scope and mounts and more dependable because of the relatively short case length was perfect for a semi-automatic rifle.

I mainly purchased my R-1 to hunt whitetails during the rut in Alabama and Central West Georgia which can offer a variety of tight brush shots as well as some long field shots. I wanted to have the confidence that my rifle would stay sited in as consistant as possible for a 100-300 yard shot if needed.

I plan on hunting 30-40 days from starting just before Thanksgiving thru the end of January... that will be the real test that makes or breaks my opinion of how dependable and accurate the R-1 really is. I am curious how the 300 win shoots and does it stay sited in. I have heard of one person that had extraction problem and another concerning reloading with the 300. wins clip.

[Ivanab]

Originally posted by DreamHuntz:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ivanab:
I have a 30-06 carbine R-1. It will shoot 1" - 1.5" groups at 100 yards with winchester silvertips.

I recently purchased a 300mag in the R-1, but have not shot it yet. I just noticed that you already owned a R-1 in the 30/06 caliber and recently purchased another in rifle in 300. win. too. Did you ever consider just buying the the 300 Win barrel since they are supposed to be interchangable? I believe it is supposed to be about half the price of buying the entire rifle. This was one more reason I decided to buy the R-1 myself. I had originally wanted a 300 win myself but changed my mind to the 308 win instead. I am very pleased with the performance. I have had several Browning BAR and Remington 7400 owners tell me about their displeasure of owning both of those rifles. Everything from hanging up when extracing spent rounds to beating the scopes off their guns and not being to keep them sited in.

In making my decision when it came to selecting the caliber I liked the fact that while very accuate the .308 win has the least violent recoil and would be less likey to abuse my scope and mounts and more dependable because of the relatively short case length was perfect for a semi-automatic rifle.

I mainly purchased my R-1 to hunt whitetails during the rut in Alabama and Central West Georgia which can offer a variety of tight brush shots as well as some long field shots. I wanted to have the confidence that my rifle would stay sited in as consistant as possible for a 100-300 yard shot if needed.

I plan on hunting 30-40 days from starting just before Thanksgiving thru the end of January... that will be the real test that makes or breaks my opinion of how dependable and accurate the R-1 really is. I am curious how the 300 win shoots and does it stay sited in. I have heard of one person that had extraction problem and another concerning reloading with the 300. wins clip. </font>[/QUOTE]My 300mag seems to shoot pretty good. I did not have a chance to shoot it to much before I went to Montanna last week but took it anyway. I did not see any elk in the warm weather, but did kill a nice mule deer at 275 yards. The R-1 but it right where it needed to be. I love both it and the 30-06. I think I may hunt with the 300mag more than the 30-06, because I am a big guy and the recoil does not seem to bother me.

[Dance&Sting]

Should I get one dammit.. I'm lost in the world of rifles. X(

[tucker301]

Try to not ask this question on the end of every thread here.

Click here (http://www.benelliusa.com/forums/ultimatebb.php/topic/5/48.html#000007) to see an answer to your similar post in another thread.

[shekaree]

Dance&Sting,

Don't think, just get one right away just like me.

I am still looking for a shooting range to try mine. I am new in NC and having trouble finding one where I can shoot outdoors.

[tucker301]

Try here (http://www.nrahq.org/shootingrange/findlocal.asp)

[Omega75]

I recently purchased a Benelli R1 in .308 for 653.00.I have upgraded to a Comfortech stocks and a Leupold VXL 4.5-14X50mm. I love this rifle! I did notice that the accuracy is affected by the "barrel cap" greatly. However, the results are very pleasing! I found the rifle to be capable of sub 1" groups. I even put a hole through a quarter at 100yds. ! I couldn't be more pleased with this product. However,I would like to hear about any different ways to keep the cap from coming loose during fire.

[garren]

Look here and thank Tucker301
http://www.benelliusa.com/forums/ultimatebb.php/topic/5/58.html

[Omega75]

Thanks!

[tucker301]

You're welcome :D

Thanks, garren.

[garren]

...and you're welcome too smile.gif

[smong2000]

I have an R1 Comfortec in 30-06 with a low mounted Leupy VXIII 2-8 and after a couple near sales of it, decided to keep her and use it this season. I'd been hung up with sub-MOA dreams and was going to get a custom bolt to do just that. My R1 will do consistent 1-1.5" off sandbags at 100 with cheap Winchester Powerpoint 165's from day 1 and for now I'm happy with that. I hunt dense evergreens in Vt, NH, Me and Ontario for deer and honestly never had a rifle that carries and comes up quite as nice as the R1. No need for me to think about too many 300 yd shots and follow-up shots at flashing 50yd bucks are more important in my situation. Also, tracking and covering 8-10 miles a day requires something that feels good in your hand all day (don't bother with slings in these woods). To each his own, but the R1 fits the application I need right now perfectly and I love it after spending 3 weeks carrying it. It also makes me feel good to hand it to someone at the camp and watch the smile come to their face when the 1st shoulder it.

[Omega75]

http://myspace-590.vo.llnwd.net/01516/09/54/1516334590_m.jpg

http://myspace-924.vo.llnwd.net/01516/42/93/1516333924_m.jpg
This is a repost ,but I think it is more relevent here."It was more like the Hand of God came down and said "This is your day!". I walked into the gun store and they had a Benelli R1 in .308 w/wood stocks the price was $635.00! It seems the previous owner wasn't getting a tight enough group, got fed up and kicked this dog to the curb! I quickly asked for the rifle,as there were several Hunters milling around the area .Using the "Jedi Mind Trick", I asked him to swap the Comfortech stocks off of one of the numerous R1's they stocked.He happily did just that and charged me $ 50 difference! Keeping my cool I enquired about installing the 4.5X14 50MM VXL as well. After about 20mins the deal was done at a final cost of $1465. Yes, the scope cost more than the rifle ,but what is a grown boy supposed to do? P.S. I have now added three 10rd clips from Benelli to the system."

[ 12-07-2006, 11:02 AM: Message edited by: Omega75 ]